Joseph Baba's Journal My Hardware

Have a tendency to modify things. Built my first car at 14 years old, always trying to find ways of making it better, faster and different. Went to the Monterey Historic's when it was for "Ford" there was a line of Mustangs, all white with the Blue stripe thing. My friend said, do you want to walk 1/4 mile over there to look at them ?? I said WHY ???? SO. ????? There you go.

Built this one for my Sweetie Joanie. We sold it a couple of years back, and it now resides in Florida.

1964 Triumph Spitfire / with 3 Main MGB motor.

I built this back in the 80's. Still occasionally use it All hand make.
READS: DC Amps 0-80
DC Volts 0-16
Vacuum 0-30 Inches
Water Temp 100-250 Degrees F
Tachometer: Morris @ West Valley Calibrated it for 4 or 6 Cylinder

Works for POSITIVE or NEGATIVE Ground Cars

HOOKUP: Red light under tack indicates unit on (Red to Coil + Black to
GND) Reverse Leads for Positive GND
TACH Lead to COIL (Distributor Side)

WORKING: The four (RED-LOOKING) Actually AMBER lights across the bottom, under the Tack are 90 Volt NEON Bulbs. A large resistor pack in series with these bulbs creates a heavy LOAD on any cylinder being tested that is suspected of MIS-FIRING. The NEEDLE point probe of this circuit is inserted at the SPARK PLUG. (Thru the RUBBER BOOTIE). If the cylinder is FIRING OK.. the AMBER lights flash , RPM (As shown on the Tach) drops Slightly. If the plug is FOULED, The lights will flash, (High Voltage is There), no RPM drop. Cylinder dead. = Bad Plug. If the Lights DO NOT Flash, move probe to that wire at Distributor cap. Lights FLASH ??YES, Bad Ignition Spark Plug Wire. Simple and Accurate. Along with the VACUUM GAUGE =- ("YOUR BEST FRIEND" Learn and understand a Vacuum gauge. Many simple problems can be solved by SIMPLE diagnostics rather that the 'EASTER EGG" Hunt

I started building my Autocross Car in 1982 Installed (Silicone DOT 5). At that point in time, it was new and I could only find it at NAPA. I sold my car this past summer to a young fellow here in town. He is kicking ass with it at almost every event. 'GUESS WHAT) Same Master Cylinders, Calipers Wheel Cylinders, Slave and Hoses as I installed in 1982. Actually. mostly the same fluid except for topping up. IT DID NOT DISSOLVE THE SEALS>
My MGBGT, built in 2000 Same Story as Above
My MGBGT "PINKY" (Sold Now) She Lives in Florida Same Story.

Every Car I have built in the last 25 Years left my Shop with DOT 5. NO, NO, NO issues. 'HOWEVER" AS SEEN ON THIS SITE A million TIMES. bleed slow, do not pump pedal. gravity bleed is the best method. This simple tool with $5.00 worth of Water cooler Parts and a Peanut Butter Jar will make you a Happy Camper.
Attach bleeder hose to the nipple, (The Component), not yours. Add about 1" fluid to Jar, open inline PETCOCK (Swamp Cooler Part) , Orientate wrench used to open bleeder so as its weight helps hold nipple open. Gradually depress clutch or brake pedal. SLOWLY / DO NOT PUMP. Let it up when it reaches its maximum travel. REPEAT As air is expelled, you will see the bubbles coming up in the bottle. When bubbles stop, air is out and with each pedal push you will see the fluid rise in the jar. Close BLEEDER, (No air can get in, it is being back fed) CLOSE Petcock, Remove bleeder hose. REMEMBER TO MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THE MASTER CYLINDER FULL AND DO NOT LET IT RUN DRY. (Or back to Square one.)
"CAUTION" ALSO VERY IMPORTANT. This is Gravity Feed. SOOOOOOOO If the bleeder bottle is higher that the Master Cylinder, and the PETCOCK and Bleeder nipple are left OPEN. The tool will back feed and OVERFLOW the master Cylinder. Keep Bleed Bottle at the same height as Master Cylinder. Been using this for over 25 years.

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