Rick Bosak's Journal

Heater Air Flow Cut-off

Mon, 17 Nov 2025 12:25:43 -0600

Rick Bosak's Journal --

I love driving in the fall with the top down windows up and the heater on full. Of course in the summer I don’t want any more heat in the cockpit. I do have a valve to shut off water to the coil but to stop the air flow I have been putting a piece of rubber sheet between the blower and the coil. That required a screw driver and 15 contortion minutes. So I drew up some plans and sent them off to SendCutSend to make three aluminum parts for a little sliding door that will open or close off the airflow. This door sits under the blower which is located over the coil in the firewall. I now just insert or remove the sliding door. Easy peasy. Now I’m ready for heat or not as the weather changes. If you need fabrication parts I highly recommend SendCutSend. My three parts were a little over $30 delivered.

<The three parts that make the sliding door>	<The door in position sliding out>	<Door being removed>
<Here the door inserted to block off air flow>

Posted 2025-11-17 12:25:43 by Rick Bosak

Coolant Pipes Re-location

Mon, 18 Nov 2024 16:40:03 -0600

Rick Bosak's Journal --

The engine in my Sprite started life in Toyota Corollas as a rear wheel drive engine. In the late 80s Toyota got into front wheel drive cars but kept the block of their tried and true 1600 4 cylinder and just rotated it to an East West FWD application. They just changed the coolant hook-ups. My 94 engine was this East West configuration. This meant that when I rotated it back to a North South RWD orientation that my coolant lines ended up at the fire wall. I hated running my coolant lines all the way from the firewall then over the header to get to the radiator. Enter the Tuners and Drifters who loved this 20 valve 4 cylinder engine like me they saw no sense in running coolant lines over the header. So a kit was created to move the lines back to the original RWD location on the block right by the water pump up front by the radiator. I finally bought the kit from SQ Engineering and installed it. This opened up my header and got the coolant pipes away from the heat. I decided to install the kit without pulling the engine. This was tough as there is no room for hands and wrenches in my engine bay. I also needed to create custom coolant hoses with the right bends and lengths by using parts from ten hoses I pulled from the local salvage yard. After five days and a lot of swear words it is done. One benefit was that now I have enough room by the fire wall to install a shut-off valve for my heater core. That will help in the summer. I also discovered that my original thermostat was stuck partially open which explained why it always took longer than it should to get down off of fast idle in the mornings. I'm glad its done now on to further refinements. There is a kit now to install an Accord starter onto the T50 transmision....

<Before with coolant pipe over header>	<After now you can see I need to paint my header>	<The shiny thermostat housing now behind the water pump and alternator>
<I made my hoses by combining parts of salvage hoses>

Posted 2024-11-18 16:40:03 by Rick Bosak

Oil Pressure Gauge

Fri, 08 Sep 2023 16:36:11 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

I have a Smiths oil pressure gauge that replaced the original dual water/oil gauge that came in the Sprite. After 4 summers of driving the oil pressure needle pegged at the high end above the 100 psi limit. Other than a blocked relief valve in the oil pump (not likely) the obvious problem was probably the sender unit. It was a VDO I bought from Summit. With just ignition on it is still pegged over the top limit. I'm hoping a new one from Smiths will last longer SMIPTR1810-1-10 Smiths B/M Pressure Sender 1/8 x 27 NPT. It had to come all the way from the UK but it's installed and reading correctly. I had to lay under the Sprite to install as it is right under the header. My old bod don't like crawling around under a car so much now that I'm past 70. But the test drive was worth it. I had a very big smile going through the gears.

<ptr1810-1-10>

<IMG 1014>

Posted 2023-09-08 16:36:11 by Rick Bosak

Fabrication Resource

Fri, 11 Aug 2023 16:35:02 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

I'm sure some of you gals and guys know about this website/resource but for those that don't. https://sendcutsend.com/ is a great place to get small parts built for you. If you don't have all the tools or even need something fast. I had them cut and bend a cover for my in-tank fuel pump to cover the hole in my boot. Done in a week, free shipping too. I gave them plans i created in Adobe Illustrator since I don't want to buy a 3D modeling software. They also let you build simple parts on their system if you don't have any software at all. They even send candy along with the part. Handy place. I could have hacked this out with my angle grinder, etc. but it wouldn't have looked nearly as good.

<IMG 6459>	<IMG 6458>	<IMG 6481>
<IMG 6456>

Posted 2023-08-11 16:35:02 by Rick Bosak

In-tank Fuel Pump

Sun, 23 Jul 2023 13:21:47 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

I originally mounted my fuel pump to the side of the fuel tank. There were two problems with this. One is that the tank proved to be a great echo chamber and the pump whine/howl was very obvious and annoying. The second issue was more serious. Since the 8 gallon tank has no baffles the engine would experience fuel starvation if the tank was less than half full during a sweeping right hand curve. An in-tank pump comes with it's own baffle/pot that collects the return line fuel to solve this problem. The installation was complicated by the fact that the tank is too shallow to accommodate the height of the pump. I made a half inch aluminum riser to give me some more head room in the tank but then this required that I cut a maching hole in the boot floor.

<Pump module with "swirl pot" for return fuel>	<I ventilated the tank with a fan through the guage sender hole so as not to explode from vapors while cutting>	<I had to make an extra gasket to accomdate my half inch aluminum riser>
<Had to cut a hole in the boot floor. Next I will make a cover to protect the fittings>

Posted 2023-07-23 13:21:47 by Rick Bosak

Ride Video

Sat, 17 Jun 2023 14:25:19 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

I've wanted to get some shots of the car in motion but kind of hard when you're driving it. So I had my son Sam run past me. Sounds even better when you are in the car. What a great day for a drive. https://photos.app.goo.gl/2EBMwksD23Kk7K4J7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/873c1gqiiX5SShaw7

Posted 2023-06-17 14:25:19 by Rick Bosak

Emblem

Thu, 03 Mar 2022 13:24:37 -0600

Rick Bosak's Journal --

I debated for some time about putting the Sprite emblem on the boot lid. The holes were filled during paint but that emblem was still rattling around in the parts box. I had wanted the rear of the car to look uncluttered but I finally gave in. I mounted it with 3M emblem tape so I guess I can always change my mind. Now fewer folks will ask what kind of car it is.

<IMG 4229>

<IMG 4231>

Posted 2022-03-03 13:24:37 by Rick Bosak

Engine LIfting Hooks

Tue, 26 Oct 2021 20:42:47 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

During the build we used a chain and some bolts as lifting points to install the engine. This summer I took a little time out from just driving the Sprite to fabricate and install two engine lift hooks. The back hook is black and was cut on my nephew's CNC plasma cutter. The front hook I made from a U-bolt that I heated and re-bent to fit the engine mount that was left over from when this engine was a transverse mounted FWD in a Japanese Corolla. My plan is to eventually move my water connections from the back by the fire wall up to the front near the water pump. Then I can get rid of the water pipes that run so close to my header. I may have to pull the engine to do this, but I won't know till I get into it so I want to be prepared with these new lift hooks.

<Back hook is black>	<Front hook bolt to old engine mount poiint>	<IMG 3069>
<Water pipes run past header>

Posted 2021-10-26 20:42:47 by Rick Bosak

Side View Mirror

Wed, 14 Oct 2020 19:05:13 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

I finally got around to adding a side view mirror to the 66. At first I hesitated because I was not happy with the mirrors I was finding. Also the shed the car is kept in does not have much clearance at the door, but measurements proved I would still be able to park there. Then I was afraid to drill holes in my new paint job, but finally I decided that safety comes first. I chose a mounting arm from Holden but didn't use their rectangular mirror. Instead I wanted a round mirror head that I think looks more appropriate to the age of the car. I had to grind a little off of the arm base to match the curve of the door. The plastic mounting plate needed a little heat and re-bend also but it mounted up very solid. I'm enjoying the rear view now and I'm happy with the look as well.

<IMG 2335>	<IMG 2333>	<IMG 2303>
<IMG 2304>

Posted 2020-10-14 19:05:13 by Rick Bosak

Summer Of Miss-Fire At High Speeds

Sun, 13 Jan 2019 11:25:53 -0600

Rick Bosak's Journal --

Just as my summer driving season got going the Sprite started to experience a miss at 50 - 60 mph. This never happened during the first 10 minutes of driving the car ran like a champ when cold. It seemed to be a spark issue but I changed the fuel filter just in case. I next suspected the igniter because the Tach would jump like crazy when the miss happened and the tach takes it's signal from igniter. I was able to find a spare at the salvage yard and it was an easy swap but that didn't help either. Next I swapped in a spare ECU i had, Nope. Then I thought I should check the simple stuff DUH, so new plugs, wires and then I looked at the distributor cap. What a mess it was, I had never loopked into the wire ports before. After seeing this bad corrosion I was sure I had found the problem, but no. I then checked the coil and found it read fine on the multimeter when cold but when hot it was out of spec, That coil finally solved the problem. I suspect the coil's demise was caused by a bad ground on the alternator. It seems some idiot had painted up all of the mounting brackets so well that it was not grounding to the block. Sometimes I'm my own worst enemy. If it ain't broke I'll fix it till it is. It is nice to know that my entire ignition system is in top shape now. After the hard stuff was done I decided to put the soft top on to be sure I would be protected if I ever got caught in the rain. I had never had the top on since I bought the car in 1980. I tried every way I could but the top would not fit right. I discovered that the previous owner had sold it to me with the wrong top frame, it was a Bugeye frame. I was able with the help of eBay to sell the Bugeye frame and buy a correct Sprite frame. Now I can take the top along in the boot on long drives and be protected. But wait, now I cannot fit the top into the boot because of the new boot lid struts I installed and all of the space now taken up by my coil-over-shock suspension and the battery. I can't stash the top behind the seats either because of the roll bar. I'll figure something out before next Spring. I had time for one last drive of the season.

<bad corrosion>

<Putting the top on>

<Last drive, top down, heater on full blast>

Posted 2019-01-13 11:25:53 by Rick Bosak

Roll Bar And Interior

Sat, 17 Feb 2018 19:26:25 -0600

Rick Bosak's Journal --

Next on my priority list was my roll bar. If not padded a roll bar can be more of a danger than a help. If rear-ended things can get nasty without a helmet. I bought padding from Summit i but still need to get a nice vinyl wrap made to cover it. Then I was finally ready to start the interior. I needed my windows put back into the newly painted doors. What a nasty job it is. They must have used elves at the MG factory. I found it was necessary to tape one critical bolt into place on the bottom of the vent window before working it into the door where I would not be able to hold the bolt in place. I bought new rubber all around from McGregor and clips to hold the window fur strips in place. I don't want to ever have to do that job again but if I do I might try taking the door off and laying it flat on a table. After getting the guts all put back in place I was able to pop on the door panels that I had purchased in my enthusiasm 20 years earlier when I first bought the car. They fit well and look great. Next i built and installed the panel between the cockpit and the trunk, now I don't hear the fuel pump as much and can secure items from thieves in the boot. I have a remote release behind the drivers seat (from a Honda civic) for the boot lid as I deleted the outside boot handle completely.

<Image 4>	<IMG 2270>	<IMG 2271>
<IMG 2266>	<Image>	<20160505 184422>
<20160505 184235>	<IMG 2065>

Posted 2018-02-17 19:26:25 by Rick Bosak

Gear Whine

Sat, 17 Feb 2018 19:09:19 -0600

Rick Bosak's Journal --

My next issue was the annoying sound coming from my Mazda RX7 rear axle. Although super beefy and having LSD and big rear disc brakes the whine was unbearable. Kind of like going to the dentist for a filling. It was fine under load or off accelerator but on cruising it was horrible. I had bought the axle used as it was already narrowed but the PO had set up the backlash and pre-load wrong and permanently damaged the ring and pinon gears. I had a hard time finding used gears (3.909) at a reasonable cost. When I did find some I then found a shop that specialized in swapping rear-end gears and removed the pumpkin and took it into them to do the delicate work. I supplied them with a new crush sleeve, all new bearings, and seals. They finished their work in one day. I had never replaced pumpkin gears before and had no idea how hard it is to remove and re-insert that 50 pounds of metal. The housing mating surfaces are machined to a very tight tolerance, and with liquid gasket drying and me laying on my back, I worked up a sweat going from side to side to seat it home with bolts before my sealant dried. My first drive with the new gears proved it was all worth it. What a relief to cruise along with just the sweet sound of the muffler. Thanks to Proven Force in Osseo Minnesota for the gear swap.

<IMG 3032>	<IMG 3035>	<IMG 3033>
<20170413 143610>	<20170413 143328>	<20170414 082544>
<20170414 114458>	<20170414 161702>

Posted 2018-02-17 19:09:19 by Rick Bosak

Overdue Update

Sat, 17 Feb 2018 18:54:53 -0600

Rick Bosak's Journal --

After my last entry i had the car painted in Viper red before final re-assembly. After the first short season of driving I wanted to tackle the interior but I was having random intermittent driveabillity problems. Now I've been driving the Sprite for 3 summers. After much sensor checking, and desperate for a solution I decided to open up the ECU. I discovered a sticky mess and a leaking capacitor. This is a known problem for capacitors of a certain vintage. It plagued every thing from cars to TVs. I replaced all 7 of the ECU capacitors at a cost of 30 cents each and solved the random intermittent issue.

<IMG 1703>

<8515 024>

<IMG 2450>

Posted 2018-02-17 18:54:53 by Rick Bosak

First Drive

Sun, 15 Sep 2013 21:47:46 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

This was the first drive with the new drive train. I was very happy with the results even though without doors and windscreen I was not able to get out on the road yet and out of second gear. I loved the sound of the Bosal Brospeed muffler, they are cheap too. It is very easy to spin the tires and I was happy to find out that the transmission I modified with an older shorter tail housing shifted well. Also the new clutch and timing belt I installed two years ago worked perfectly. All in all a huge thrill and relief. This is my first swap and I sometimes think I'm nuts for doing it, but one short drive blew away my doubts. https://photos.app.goo.gl/44ZoMHnX2UEy7K936

<first drive>

Posted 2013-09-15 21:47:46 by Rick Bosak

Engine Layout

Sun, 15 Sep 2013 21:31:06 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

The stock Toyota intake air box that connects to the four throttle bodies was much too large for the engine bay. Chris was able to build a new one with the correct volume and once he painted it up it looks fabulous. We had to flip the throttle cable linkage to face the opposite way than it did in the stock Toyota configuration and the cable is Nissan. You can see the Ford fuse box that fits into the passenger side pedal plate. The car had only two fuses originally, but I have banished Lucas the prince of darkness and have many more circuits now.

We worked hard to get the engine and weight as far back as possible to aid in handling but you can see we still worked in a heater. The battery is in the boot now and helps a small bit with weight distribution also. The radiator is a Toyota Trecel and the overflow bottle is off-the-shelf from O'Reily's. You can see the washable intake air filter poking out in front, which will lie just behind the grill. The pedal box was built to be adjustable and contains a Chevy Chevette brake master cylinder. With the mix of brake components from Mazda, MGB, and Spitfire we wanted to be able to change the leverage as needed. We also installed a balancing valve on the driver's side wheel well. Front shocks are also adjustable now that they have been rebuilt by World Wide Auto in Wisconsin.

<engine bay>

<Intake air box>

Posted 2013-09-15 21:31:06 by Rick Bosak

Gauges

Sun, 15 Sep 2013 21:08:36 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

The new engine loves to rev, and the old tachometer would not read high enough. Also the old mechanical speedometer would be very tough to get to read correctly with different tire size, different gear ratios, etc. So rather than try different speedo gears in the Toyota trans and building a new cable end, I decided to go with electric gauges for both. The tach and speedo are custom from Speedhut. I emailed them a Sprite logo to add to the gauges. The speedo reads from magnets on the drive shaft and the tach connects directly to the Toyota ECU. They are both programable. I'm also going to replace the single/dual water temp and oil pressure gauge with two electric single purpose water and oil Smiths gauges. One will go right where the ignition switch is, the switch will move down in front of the Sprite emblem. Electric connections will make it much easier when I need to remove the dash or engine. You can also see the hotrod heater just below the dash, it has a 3 speed blower, so my late fall trips through the falling leaves will be nice and warm even with the top down.

<Speedo and Tach>

<dual gauge and ignition switch>

<Tachometer from Speedhut>

Posted 2013-09-15 21:08:36 by Rick Bosak

Seats

Sun, 15 Sep 2013 20:46:48 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

I like the looks of the seats that the 64-65 Spridgets used better than the ones that came in my 66. I've collected some old ones and am refurbishing them with new covers. I was able to use one set of old foams and had to purchase one set. Everything got blasted then treated with POR15. When fitting the vinyl I found that heat from a hair dryer and the sun of a warm day were my best friends. The pieces that slip over the "horns" seemed impossibly small, I was convinced they were improperly made, but after the hair dryer treatment they slipped right into place. I've never done this kind of work before but I think they came out OK. I am tempted by the Miata seats and even the Corvette seats from the mid 80s, so I'll see how these feel after I sit on them for a long trip.

<one done>	<POR15 treatment>	<New and old foam sets>
<clipping on the new cover>

Posted 2013-09-15 20:46:48 by Rick Bosak

Header And Water Lines

Wed, 05 Jun 2013 18:53:43 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

Since the Toyota engine was set up as front wheel drive the water outlets end up near the firewall in the rear wheel drive set up. This make things kind of tight with the header being on the same side of the engine. One water line goes over and one goes under. I had thought of running one of the lines over by the fender but was afraid that might cause air trapping. The header is "special" also as the steering shaft runs right through the middle, two pipes on each side of the steering shaft. The radiator is also Toyota, from a Trecel, fits great.

<header and water lines>

<route to radiator>

Posted 2013-06-05 18:53:43 by Rick Bosak

Exhaust Routing

Wed, 05 Jun 2013 18:31:48 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

Well we have the entire exhaust system fully routed. We are using quick release clamps and a used Bosal muffler. We've tried to keep the system as tight as possible due to the well known lack of ground clearance on the Spridgets. We found we had to move the fuel tank to the side to make it all work. Can't wait to hear how the 20 valve four cylinder sounds with this unknown muffler. A little loud is not bad with such a small hard to see car lost in todays giant SUVs.

<exhaust routing>

Posted 2013-06-05 18:31:48 by Rick Bosak

Drive Shaft

Mon, 17 Dec 2012 20:25:34 -0600

Rick Bosak's Journal --

The last piece of the drive line puzzle was the drive shaft. I needed a shaft of the correct length that would connect a 1986 Toyota Corolla 5 speed trans to a 1984 Mazda RX7 LSD rear axle. A local shop called Proven Force was able to put one together for me, finding both the old joints/ends and adding some xerxes fittings and a balanced tube. It is the shortest drive shaft I've come across.

As soon as this goes in and a little more wiring is finished, the car will be ready to start and drive around the lot a little. That will be the first time since the mid 80s that it will move under it's own power.

<Short last piece of the drive line puzzle>

Posted 2012-12-17 20:25:34 by Rick Bosak

Bumpers?

Mon, 17 Dec 2012 20:19:11 -0600

Rick Bosak's Journal --

The original chrome bumpers were not in too bad of shape but after seeing Bill Young's car using the rear bumperettes from the earlier Bugeye Sprites on the front, I've deicided to go that way. Those bumperettes are very rare though and expensive. They must be made out of unobtainium or something. Instead I picked up a couple of rear bumperettes from an early Triumph TR3. They are a little more squareish in shape than the Bugeye ones and easier to get. I plan to put them front and rear. They won't really offer any protection from the folks who park by the braille method but these cars are so low not much does.

I've also received two small grille sections from Ashley Hinton that are made from the same material as the grille I bought from him. Just have to figure a way to mount them.

<front bumper solutions>

<vent grilles>

Posted 2012-12-17 20:19:11 by Rick Bosak

Lucas Be Gone!

Thu, 30 Aug 2012 20:24:06 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

the Sprite came stock with only two fuses for the entire car. I'm upgrading slightly. the new fuse box fits perfectly in the passenger side pedal pannel. At least this car won't burn up from a faulty connection. All new wiring is going in.

<fusebox>

Posted 2012-08-30 20:24:06 by Rick Bosak

Air Intake

Thu, 30 Aug 2012 20:20:59 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

We have started routing the intake air with a flex section for engine movement. This will go up to the Mass Air Flow unit behind the grille

<intake air>

Posted 2012-08-30 20:20:59 by Rick Bosak

Plumbing

Thu, 30 Aug 2012 20:17:54 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

This is a front wheel drive engine so the water outlet ends up by the fire wall when it is configured for rear wheel drive, the solution is to run a pipe up to the radiator. It will pass right over the top of the custom header

<custom pipe>

Posted 2012-08-30 20:17:54 by Rick Bosak

Re Assembly Continues

Sun, 29 Jul 2012 18:26:32 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

we are continuing to put her all back together before a complete tear down to paint the final Viper red. I'm using headlights that incorporate turn signals so I'll have a smoother more curvaceous front. The rear will also be as smooth as possible with an interior boot release.

<Hot rod headlight>

<No boot handle/key>

Posted 2012-07-29 18:26:32 by Rick Bosak

Re-fit

Fri, 18 May 2012 18:12:20 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

Time to refit all the body parts before final sand down. Most of these parts have not seen each other for quite a while. In fact this fender has never been on this car before and needed a little pounding to fit just right. Notice there are no turn signal holes. I'll be putting LED strips inside the headlights (hotrodder style)

The steering column has to be in so we can make sure the header will clear it. I'm also trying to decide what to do with the valence vent cut outs, usually the license plate would cover them, I'm hoping I can go without a front plate, have to check on that, but then do I put some sort of grill in them?

<all back together>

<steering column>

Posted 2012-05-18 18:12:20 by Rick Bosak

Header

Wed, 02 May 2012 17:58:10 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

Now at the other end of the exhaust system is the stock header that came on the Silvertop engine. It will not fit the engine bay as is but with some cutting and puzzle work it should end up with close to the stock length of run for each cylinder. Some tacks while it is in place, then remove to finish the welds. I'll most likely be wrapping it to keep some of the heat out of the engine bay.

<header>

Posted 2012-05-02 17:58:10 by Rick Bosak

Muffler

Wed, 02 May 2012 17:52:45 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

I've been considering mufflers. I've looked at lots of expensive ones but I'm going to start with a used one. It's a Bosal. I almost have to use it since it is only one letter off of my last name. It looks to be a pretty straight through so I hope it won't be too loud. I'll loose the double tip and go with a single with a slight downward curve. Can't wait to hear the engine rev.

<Bosal muffler>

Posted 2012-05-02 17:52:45 by Rick Bosak

Primer

Sun, 22 Apr 2012 17:35:48 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

Lots of seam sealer and a couple of coats of high build primer. The raised square wheel arches are really looking great now. Needs a little more shaping though. And we still have to cut in the heater.

<most body mods done now>

<tunnel will still need a hole cut for the shifter>

Posted 2012-04-22 17:35:48 by Rick Bosak

More Body Work

Thu, 15 Mar 2012 18:23:46 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

We have the tunnel covered now and the coil over shocks covered in the boot. Still room for the spare but will have to be a small suitcase.

<tunnel with seam sealer>

<shocks in the boot>

Posted 2012-03-15 18:23:46 by Rick Bosak

Floor Pans

Wed, 08 Feb 2012 19:33:27 -0600

Rick Bosak's Journal --

Finally the floor pans. The rust was not so bad but the dents! I'm not sure what the PO did to it but ground clearance is not a Spridget attribute. Didn't make sense to do all this tunnel work and not do the floors.

<drivers side>

<one down one to go>

Posted 2012-02-08 19:33:27 by Rick Bosak

Tunnel Work

Sat, 04 Feb 2012 10:05:40 -0600

Rick Bosak's Journal --

The 86 Corolla GTS 5 speed trans is bigger than the stock trans, and as we were going to replace the floors, one thing led to another. We've added some strength to the car in the process.

<tunnel>

<side view>

Posted 2012-02-04 10:05:40 by Rick Bosak

Wheel Openings

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 17:34:38 -0600

Rick Bosak's Journal --

I'm fitting wider tires to deal with the increase HP. I've mounted 195/60R-13 Sumitomo HTR 200 tires, only $50 each. Rolling the rear wheel openings was just not going to do it. I really prefer the square wheel arches to the RWA version so our solution was to just cut loose and raise what is already there. Now there is plenty of room and the Sprite still looks stock.

<cutting out some height>

<weld in some filler>

Posted 2012-01-26 17:34:38 by Rick Bosak

Rear Suspension

Sun, 15 Jan 2012 19:39:13 -0600

Rick Bosak's Journal --

We've figured out a 4 link coil-over shock set up using Chris's computer program to figure out the geometry. Its taken a lot of cutting but it should handle amazingly. Trunk space is lost, the battery will go in here too, but the spare will still fit.

<Mazda RX7 axle>

<Shock support>

Posted 2012-01-15 19:39:13 by Rick Bosak

Final Engine Placement

Thu, 30 Dec 2010 15:35:34 -0600

Rick Bosak's Journal --

With the help of local mechanic Chris Olsen we have the engine as low and far back as we can get it. (ignore the 18 inch wheels, they were just handy for rolling around the shop). I like the engine where it is but it makes the oil pan hang low so I'm not saying final is final just yet. This placement also requires a lot of tunnel work and possibly some footwell work for the clutch slave.

<Engine low and far back>

Posted 2010-12-30 15:35:34 by Rick Bosak

Engine Test Fit

Sun, 31 Oct 2010 14:11:23 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

Well the frame cross bar had to go as well as most of the battery/heater shelf. No loss there as it was mostly rust. In any event the engine fits. This little four cylinder is made for this car.

<engine test fit>

Posted 2010-10-31 14:11:23 by Rick Bosak

Trailer Time

Mon, 25 Oct 2010 16:20:44 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

Time to move the project to a pole barn where there is enough room to test fit the new engine trans and axel. The Sprite looks mighty small on those big car trailers. I'm sure the trailer weighed more than the car.

<Big trailer, little car>

Posted 2010-10-25 16:20:44 by Rick Bosak

Cleaning Engine Bay

Fri, 08 Oct 2010 17:42:28 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

Just the start of a long process, the grease was thick enough for me to use a putty knife in some spots.

<engine bay>

Posted 2010-10-08 17:42:28 by Rick Bosak

Engine Out

Fri, 08 Oct 2010 17:40:49 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

Have not had much time for the Sprite. Busy working, etc. But my son Sam and I did manage to pull the engine out and start cleaning the grease out of the engine bay. It was a pretty easy job as I have the wings, bonnet, and front clip removed.

<engine out>

<no wings or bonnet>

Posted 2010-10-08 17:40:49 by Rick Bosak

Join Engine And Transmission

Wed, 19 Aug 2009 19:02:52 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

My son Sam and I installed a new clutch pressure plate and friction plate on the 20 valve engine tonight. Then we bolted the 1986 transmission to the 1994 Corolla engine. It went together surprisingly easy. I still need to buy a few more bolts and do a little grinding on the "feather braces" that fit under the engine and support the trans to engine connection. Also need to put the starter and water pump back on. Then I will have a unit that I can start to figure out how to fit in the car. Time for a celebration beer.

<86 Corolla 5 speed trans>

<Ready to roll>

Posted 2009-08-19 19:02:52 by Rick Bosak

Engine

Fri, 10 Jul 2009 14:49:11 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

Just so you can get an idea of the size of the engine (known as a 4AGE silvertop), here it is with me. The block size is not that much different than the A series engine, but the heater shelf is going to have to go.

<The Silvertop>

Posted 2009-07-10 14:49:11 by Rick Bosak

New Engine For The Old Sprite

Fri, 10 Jul 2009 14:44:44 -0500

Rick Bosak's Journal --

As part of my 25 year old project to restore a 1966 Austin Healey Sprite I passed a milestone today. I painted the block of the engine that will replace the standard engine the car came with back in 66. From this point on I hope to spend more time assembling than I will disassembling things.

This engine from a 1994 Toyota Corolla AE101, a dual cam, 20 valve, four cylinder (shipped from Japan) is rated at 160 horsepower. The stock 1098 engine the Sprite came with in 66' is rated at about 50 horsepower. They weigh the same. This increase in horsepower should be a lot of fun, but it would shred the current driveline, so I am replacing the transmission with a 5 speed manual from a 1986 Corolla GTS and the rear axle and brakes with a limited slip axle and disc brakes from a 1985 Mazda RX7 (needs to be narrowed). I'll be upgrading the front brakes also (sometimes you have to stop) with larger rotors from an MGB and larger calipers from a Triumph Spitfire.

After cleaning this block with lacquer thinner and a toothbrush for two days, and then sandblasting it, I put the primer on today. The final paint (silver) will go on in a few days after the primer has a chance to cure.

Time for a beer.

<Primer is on>

<before clean up>

Posted 2009-07-10 14:44:44 by Rick Bosak